Goodbye Greece! We are off to Malta with good forecast for first 2 days and then winds against us more and more for last 2 days, 470nmiles in total. Our last Greek town was charming with old harbor, Chania.
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Leaving the harbor of Rethymnon with the intakt venetian inner harbor. Until now this place ranks as our favorit on Crete.
Motoring west against wind and waves along the north coast of Crete. We fight a nauseous sleepiness. One of the moments we ask ourselves…
After a night of changing winds, shluping waves aft and anchor chain shifts providing a symphony of noises worthy of being patented as a new method of torture, accompanied by hot air and buzzing blood-sucking mosquitoes, our blurry saggy eyes squinted at the bright sun up all too soon in the sky. An invigorating leap [...] Despite the archeological museum of Heraklion featuring the best Minoan artifacts being dissapointingly still closed for renovation (since 2003 and they haven’t started yet…), visiting the 3500 year old minoan palace of Knossos with English archeologist Evans whimsical partial rebuilding of it in 1900s made our car rental excursion from eastern Crete worthwhile. We left [...] After 14 hours of crossing from Karpathos to Ay Nikolaos on Crete like in a washing mashine, we are rewarded with a wonderful sunset.
A taste of good old Greek taverna at the beach MOV00044.avi Off we go! Early start to Karpathos in near gale 7 in choppy waters. Lets hope we’ll still want to sail after today.
Strong west winds but no waves made for good sailing on east side of Rhodes to most southern point, and best conditions for windsurfing for one happy kid…
After a stormy night in Lindos bay, we wake up to an unpredicted calm and sunny morning. Laura saves the day as she dives down to unsnag our two anchors from the rocks. Rod the wimp watches with ear ache from the boat.
Gusty but lovely sail to Lindos half way down Eastside of Rhodos island. We ate greek salad and meatballs in the cute white touristy village overlooking Lily anchored in the large protected bay. We’ll stay here for a day expecting winds and waves to decrease by Monday to head for Karpathos and then Crete. We [...] Leaving Rhodes with near gale warning heading on beam reach to Lindos with staysail up. Sunny and few waves make perfect start.
We take a squeeky gnashing-sounding winch apart to clean it with diesel with brush and sponge to then wipe dry and paint it with oil and grease again. The trick is to put it back together…
Tilos island proved to be charming and unspoilt. We anchored in the bay, blissfully quiet opposite village of Livadhi.
Flying with 8kts towards east. Laura cooks our standard sail lunch: tortellini al brodo.
Escaped the drunk charter men to the bay of Maltezana on same island of Astypalia. A very sleepy town. In the only Tavern where Greek Desperados play cards and quarral, we order the only dish: pork chops and fries.
Vathi bay on Astypalia island was peacefully quiet except for the sound of goats and their bells and the rooster from the one taverna ashore…and the unfortunate arrival this afternoon of a german charterboat loaded with 8 booming hacking mouths, who decide inexplicably to anchor right next to us in this large and safe bay [...] This morning while checking the gear oil, the thread of the dipstick breaks. Luckely we manage to remove it and insert a wooden plug. Although the plug tends to loosen and oil squeezes out, we sail off. Favorable NW winds with 12kts give us with the Genaker a speedy and relaxing crossing. Laura enjoys T.C. [...] We spend two days at Santorini. Walking in Fiera, along a fantastic volcanic beach with tuffstone cliffs and marveling the architectural archityps.
Should we stay or should we go!?
Tacking our way through the crater sea of Thira.
Ios was a relaxed place, with yummy burgers for a change, until loud drunk Germans woke us up and wouldnt give us any peace starting 1am till 4am, laughing at our pleadings to be considerate. We regreted going out of our way helping them tie up to the quay last evening, all looking green and [...] Rainy crossing to Ios.
An hour after leaving Naxos, we anchor to the South in bay of Marmara off the island of Paros and wait for storm to pass, watching and listening to dark rumbling clouds above
Concert with traditional music and dance.
Peacefull beautiful Naxos island after super day sailing from Delos, lots of wind and sun
Yesterday we left Lily in a bay on the Island Rinia and Dinghi over to Delos.
Crossing 70 miles over the calm and windless Aegaen to Myconos.
Colorfull pebbles on Lambi beach on northern tip of Patmos island. Met a cool long-bearded monk from NY at the monastery of St John the Divine whose revelation of the apocalypse by God happened nearby in a cave. Only peace here now…
Wonderful sailing day into the bay of Pathmos. In the evening we hike up to the Chora with the fortified Monasterie of St. John.
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